After skiing all over the world one creates some sort of wishlist with skiruns. On top of my list was the Couloir des Cosmiques. This is a skirun in Chamonix which involves a decent rappel and around 2500 meters of vertical skiing. The ultimate classic run of Chamonix they say…
After years of skiing I had found my favourite places to ski on the planet primarily based on freeride options. Once you’re an experienced skier or snowboarder I guess you’re looking for either steep descents or powder conditions. It sounds spoiled but that’s the only way to satisfy your needs. Two of my favourite areas to ski are Las Leñas in Argentina and Chamonix in France. In both areas I have my ‘to-do-lists’. In Las Lenas most lines are steep but not extreme. Chamonix on the other hand offers runs varying from steep to really steep to extremely steep. One has to be careful here and it’s important to know your ability. One step to far can be deadly…
The ultimate run in Chamonix for me had to be the Couloir des Cosmiques. The run is steep but not extremely steep or therefore dangerous. It is rated as 5.1 / E3 where the high exposure is mostly related to overhanging seracs I guess. There is no big cliff or drop at the bottom so a fall would have serious consequences (just before setting up the rappel there is a minor section were one has to operate with care though). The interesting part of this run is the fact it’s a real ski mountaineering run, it involves a 60-meter rappel. The huge vertical is also very pleasant!
You start this run by taking the tram to the Aiguille du Midi. This must be the craziest lift in the world. I admit that Marte is pretty good too but this one takes you straight from the valley of around 1035 meters all the way to 3842 meters where one can choose from a variety of ‘skiruns’, all offpiste. In 20 minutes this lift takes you to the top where an amazing view awaits. A walk through the tunnel brings you to the start of the walk on the famous arret. Many people struggle here walking with their skis. If you want to do it safely take your crampons with you!
To ski the Vallee Blanche or its many variations you walk down the arret all the way to the plateau, to ski the Cosmiques you duck the rope halfway down and ski to the right. Once at the bottom you head right again and hike up to the top.
That’s where the real adventure begins. A section of about 20 to 30 meters (falling is not a good idea…) has to be crossed before reaching the ropes to start the rappel. Once geared up, you lean backwards and start going down. After 60 meters of rappeling you reach the actual skirun where you can step into your skis. Looking down, all you see is a beautiful run of about 40/45 degrees…
When you’re not a very experienced mountaineer it’s wise if not necessary to hire a guide in case you want to ski this run. In my case I skied with Stephane ‘Fanfan’ Dan, one the most renowned guides of Chamonix. He helped me very well with the rappel and he knew perfectly where the best snow was to be found. At the end of the couloir you have to watch out for falling seracs. Always good to know when your legs are really tired…
The final part is a relatively relaxing pitch where you cruise down all the way to the forest. When I skied the Cosmiques the snow in the forest was really minimal which meant it was really tough to get through it. Merely 3,5 hours after stepping into the Aiguille du Midi I arrived at the parking lot completely exhausted but having skied one of the best runs of my life!
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